The Ancient Cedar Path is a demanding but deeply rewarding trail that takes hikers through one of the most remarkable old-growth forests in the Pacific Northwest. The centerpiece of this 15-kilometer route is a grove of thousand-year-old western red cedars whose massive trunks stand like silent sentinels of a world that existed long before any European settler laid eyes on this land. Walking among these ancient giants puts everything in perspective — their sheer scale is humbling, their presence is reverent, and the atmosphere they create is nothing short of cathedral-like. This is not a hike you undertake for the exercise alone; this is a hike you undertake to remember what the forest looked like before we started cutting it down.
The trail is classified as hard for good reason. The elevation gain is steep and sustained, with long sections of switchbacks that climb relentlessly through the forest before reaching a summit clearing that rewards every drop of sweat with panoramic views of the surrounding mountain range. The total elevation gain exceeds 900 meters, and the upper portions of the trail are exposed to sun and wind with limited opportunities for rest in the shade. Hikers should be prepared for a full day on the trail, carrying sufficient water, food, and emergency supplies. This is not a route for beginners or for anyone who is uncertain about their fitness level — the descent is nearly as demanding as the climb, and tired legs on loose terrain are a recipe for injury.
Despite its difficulty, the Ancient Cedar Path draws visitors from across the region and beyond. The old-growth grove, located in the middle section of the trail, is the primary attraction — these cedars are among the oldest and largest living organisms in the forest, with diameters exceeding 4 meters and heights that vanish into the canopy overhead. The air beneath them is cool, still, and fragrant with the unmistakable scent of cedar that has been perfuming the forest floor for a millennium. It is the kind of place that makes you lower your voice without thinking, as though the trees themselves demand a measure of reverence.
The trail begins at the Cedar Path trailhead, situated at the end of a narrow forest road that winds through second-growth forest for 6 kilometers before reaching the parking area. The first 3 kilometers of the trail climb gradually through a mixed forest of Douglas fir, western hemlock, and red alder, following an old logging roadbed that has been converted to a hiking path. The grade is moderate here, and the wide path makes for easy walking. Interpretive signs along this section describe the history of the forest and the ecological transition from second-growth to old-growth that occurs higher on the trail.
At the 3-kilometer mark, the trail leaves the old roadbed and enters the ancient cedar grove. The transition is dramatic and immediate — the forest canopy closes overhead, the light dims, and the air cools by several degrees. The trail winds between the colossal trunks on a narrow, root-laced path that requires careful footing. Several of the largest cedars have small interpretive plaques at their base noting their estimated age and dimensions. Take time to pause and look up — the canopy overhead is a lattice of interlocking branches that filters the light into a soft, green-tinged glow. This grove extends for approximately 2 kilometers, and it is worth slowing your pace to absorb the atmosphere rather than rushing through to the summit.
Beyond the cedar grove, the trail begins its serious ascent. A series of switchbacks climb steeply through a transitional forest zone where the cedars give way to subalpine fir and mountain hemlock. The trees become shorter and more widely spaced as you gain elevation, and the views begin to open up. The final 2 kilometers approach the summit along an exposed ridgeline with increasingly dramatic views. The summit clearing offers unobstructed 360-degree views of the surrounding peaks and valleys — a fitting reward for the effort required to reach it. The return journey follows the same route, and the descent through the switchbacks takes roughly two-thirds of the time of the ascent.
The scenery on the Ancient Cedar Path is defined by contrast. The old-growth grove in the middle section is the highlight — a timeless, shadowed space where the scale of the trees overwhelms the senses and the silence feels sacred. Shafts of sunlight penetrate the canopy at scattered points, illuminating columns of floating spores and dust motes in a display that feels almost theatrical. The forest floor is relatively open beneath the cedars, with minimal undergrowth due to the deep shade, which makes the individual trees stand out with even greater impact. As you climb above the grove, the scenery shifts to expansive mountain views that improve with every meter of elevation gained. The summit views are spectacular on clear days, with snow-capped peaks marching away in every direction and the valley floor laid out like a topographic map far below.
Fauna in the old-growth section includes northern spotted owls — a threatened species that depends on ancient forest habitat — as well as pileated woodpeckers, Douglas squirrels, and the occasional black bear. The summit area is home to mountain goats and hoary marmots, both of which are commonly spotted on warm afternoons.
Trail conditions vary significantly along the route. The lower section on the old roadbed is wide and smooth, suitable for any footwear. The old-grove section is narrow, root-laced, and occasionally muddy, with uneven footing that requires attention. The switchback section is steep and can be slippery when wet, with loose rocks and scree on the outer edges of the trail. The summit ridgeline is exposed rock with scattered alpine vegetation. Water is available from several small streams in the lower and middle sections, but should be treated before drinking. The trail is generally well-maintained, with downed trees typically cleared within a few weeks of any major storm event.
The Ancient Cedar Path trailhead is located approximately 90 minutes from the nearest town, accessible via a well-maintained paved highway that transitions to a narrow gravel forest road for the final 6 kilometers. The gravel section is passable in passenger vehicles with careful driving, but high clearance is preferable. The trailhead parking area accommodates roughly 15 vehicles and includes a vault toilet and an information board with a trail map. A Northwest Forest Pass or equivalent is required for parking. The road is typically snow-free from June through October; outside this window, check local conditions before driving out, as the gravel road is not maintained in winter and can be impassable.